Prada acknowledges the Indian roots of its controversial sandal design controversy
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Title: Prada Admits Kolhapuri Sandal Inspiration After Controversial Debut
By: Dhwani Pandya, Arpan Chaturvedi, and Elisa Anzolin
Just like the ancient roots of its new sandal design, controversy has followed Prada SpA as they ventured into the world of Kolhapuri-inspired footwear.
While showcasing their latest collection in Milan, the luxury fashion powerhouse unwittingly ignited a fury in Indian artisans and politicians alike. The Italian brand's lack of acknowledgement of the Indian sandal design sent shockwaves across the Indian subcontinent thousands of miles away from the catwalk.
Enter the Kolhapuri sandal—a traditional Indian slipper reminiscent of handmade Kolhapuri chappals tracing their history back to the 12th century. The intricate design and craftsmanship of these sandals, named after the city in Maharashtra, India, were strikingly similar to the ones paraded down the Milan runway.
In the face of mounting criticism, Prada acknowledged its design root by way of a letter drafted by Lorenzo Bertelli, son of the company's owners, to a trade group on Friday.
"We recognize that the sandals... are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, boasting a centuries-old heritage," Bertelli, head of Prada's corporate social responsibility, wrote in the letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce.
Prada invited the Indian artisan community for a "dialogue for meaningful exchange" amid rumors of possible commercialization.
A Prada spokesperson also commended the traditional craftsmanship, stating, "We've always celebrated the diligence, cultural heritage, and design traditions of various communities."
While Prada's luxury goods remain beyond the financial reach of most Indians, these Kolhapuri sandals are more affordable, retailing for as low as $12 in Indian shops and markets. Meanwhile, Prada's men's leather sandals retail for upwards of $844.
Despite the fast-growing Indian luxury market, the country's cultural heritage is increasingly influencing global brand designs. Case in point, Bulgari's $16,000 Mangalsutra necklace, inspired by a traditional Indian chain worn by married women.
Nevertheless, Prada's overdue nod to Indian design came following an uproar orchestrated by the head of a trade group representing 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans. His call for recognition echoed in the social media sphere: "From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan... will the world finally give credit where it's due?"
Members of the former royal family of Kolhapur, led by Sambhaji Chhatrapati, voiced their frustration over the lack of acknowledgement of their 150-year-old tradition. Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, however, saw more smiles than frowns as his artisans viewed the global recognition of their craft.
"They are delighted that their work is being recognized internationally," he said.
Kolhapuri chappals, filled with deep cultural and historical significance, represent a living heritage that connects contemporary India to its roots. Crafted by skilled local communities using traditional methods, the sandals stand not only as pieces of footwear but also as symbols of artisanal tradition and economic sustenance for the region.
The Prada controversy sheds light on ongoing debates about respecting cultural roots, indigenous rights, fashion ethics, and transparency in the global fashion industry.
- Prada's latest collection, which includes Kolhapuri-inspired sandals, is a testament to the growing influence of cultural travel and fashion-and-beauty trends from around the world, extending beyond traditional borders to enrich their lifestyle offerings.
- The Kolhapuri sandal controversy has sparked conversations about the need for transparency in the fashion industry, emphasizing the importance of acknowledging and respecting the origins of cultural designs, a key aspect of travel and cultural exploration.